Fort Asherigad (01-08-2010)

Route: Palghar-Manor-Khodkane
Travelogue by Sulekh Baikar and Sambhaji Chopdekar

Members: Pranjal Wagh, Sulekh Baikar and Sambhaji Chopdekar.

On Saturday 31^st July 2010 after a few calls and reviewing lots of options, we finalized Asherigad, which is on the Mumbai Ahmedabad National Highway (NH 8) near Khadkavne stop. We reached Palghar via Virar and took Tata chhota haathi to go to Manor. The same driver was ready to drop us at Mastan Naka on the highway. It was raining continuously and pouring like a hell when we were traveling through the Vaghoba Khind towards Mastan Naka.

From here, we got into another chhota haathi to reach Khadkavne which is about 10 km from the Mastan Naka. While returning in the evening, we made use of the same vehicle as the ST service is not frequent on this highway and alighted at Shirsad Phata to catch the Virar train.

Okay, we reached the base village by 11.30 am. The rain had also stopped at that time. There is another prominent hill on the opposite side of the highway known as 'Adsool'. We were welcomed by the massive Adsool to our right, but our driver was prompt to warn us it won’t be the right thing to think about it as it would have been dangerous in this monsoon. Anyways, it was not our target for that day :-)

However, the driver was helpful to advise us how to reach the base village – Khodkane which is a small pada. We marched towards Asherigad which was visible in the lush green forest. The river of Khodkane village was fully flooded which we crossed with the help of a bridge over it. We soon came across a small tiled temple dedicated to Vagoba, the deity must have been adorable as we found its replica at a certain height on the way to the fort as well.

The atmosphere was full of life due to the flowing streams and the greenery around. The farmers were busy working in their paddies. Even, the fort Asheri was busy looking at his own reflection in the waters confined in the fields.

The route is well guided by the wonderful arrows (rekhi) made by some enthusiastic hikers. But the big mosquitoes proved a big hell while ascending. Still, the march was not painful as we were heading toward the cliff enjoying the beautiful waterfalls and the dense jungle.

The path is easy due to the above-mentioned rekhi as well as the visibility of the pass (the U) between Asheri and its adjacent hill. The pass is the junction where the route from Burhanpur meets. From here, the steep climb leads us toward the first set of steps. There is a small tunnel-like excavation at the base of these steps but it’s not so long. 

The super-speed blowing wind and the slippery steps were not difficult but it was an interesting combination to negotiate. When we climbed those slippery winding steps, we were welcomed by a big frog-like rock (having similarity with a dog – or should I say the combination of both!) at a small plateau. 

The plateau bears one more huge rock below which a small Ganesh-pattika has been laid. We wondered it must have borne a gate as the plateau bears remnants of a gate-like structure meant for erecting poles. From here the cliff of Asheri looks massive and one can just astonish how the wall of a bastion would have been built at the edge in those days.

The way ahead to the top goes through a col, a small version of Sarasgad. Till December 2009, it had an iron ladder that was helpful to the hikers. The removal of the ladder has increased the fear factor to a small extent as it opens up to the valley. However, the blowing wind and the reverse waters from the adjacent cliff didn’t give us any glimpse of thinking about it, the same was realized while returning though :D

After negotiating the col, we were welcomed by the second set of steps. They proved very useful as the monsoon had just become severe and we reached the second plateau within a few minutes. Here, we came across the first water cistern near the third set of steps. The water seemed to be non-potable. When we investigated further we were delighted to find out a very beautiful Portuguese styled scripture indicating a crown. 
 

The monsoon had stopped for a while but we had to climb up more steps to reach the top. On the way, we had entered through a dilapidated gate, some structures lying over there giving its evidence. 

After reaching the grassy top, we kept on moving toward the Northern part on a trail negotiating the forceful winds through the tall grass. We were fortunate enough to spot two water cisterns to the Western side which we visited while returning and found one more water cistern nearby.

Soon we reached a remnant giving ample evidence of the then, rain-harvesting system as it had open conduits. The channels must have been used to direct the waters to a suitable place in those days.

From here, we moved toward the Eastern side to find the most amazing thing on this fort – an ancient cave painted in orange, converted into a wonderful villa, and having an idol of Ganesh – as if, just waiting for getting converted into a pilgrimage! This cave has been illegally occupied by a man who has acquired the status of a BABA in this small but beautiful world. It was shameful to see such a misuse of the historical place! It was even more painful when the driver of the chhota haathi had advised us to see this BABA who now “looks after” this cave. The locals must have been helpful to this encroacher. How foolish!!

However, we must admit this only shelter gave us the much-needed warmth from the dreadful monsoon afterward. Nevertheless, we thought the modernization of the cave is not a good idea!

Okay, we moved further toward the Eastern end. There is a huge crack developed here probably due to earth-quake.
 

The literature talks about another route from the Eastern side which seemed unconquerable as the path was almost invisible due to thick vegetation. We then moved further toward the North-Eastern side to find out two small lakes, most probably formed in the monsoon and some remains of a house.

It was pouring cats and dogs and the cave was the only hope that offered us some breathing space. However, its current condition was too pathetic for us to observe for too long. We resumed our return journey in the pouring itself. While returning we visited the three water cisterns in the Western part, the two of them reminded us of our Sondai hike. It bears similar types of water tanks!

The rains had not stopped and the tick-tock kept on reminding us of the diminishing light. And moreover, the descent through the ladder-less col facing the fully forceful watery stones kept on adding the valuable inputs to the excitement of this unforgettable hike!!!... 

Snaps taken using NOKIA 6303!