Balwantgad/Balvantgad (July 13, 2008)

Members: Sulekh Baikar, Mangesh Halbe and Sambhaji Chopdekar

Balwantgad is a small fort located in the Kasara region. It is easily accessible from Vihigaon which is just 10 km away each from Kasara as well as Igatpuri on the Khodale road. Many private jeeps ply between Kasara and Khodale, so transport is not an “issue” (This word is a patented one from Mangesh! Sorry Mangya, for using it!!).

From Vihigaon, a left diversion goes to Maal village (4 km). We started our hike on this tar road. Actually the fort is not so far from Vihigaon, but we went ahead too long as we were busy talking when suddenly Mangesh observed a bastion type of structure on the nearby hillock. It’s the Balwantgad, a small tiny fort, might be utilized to keep an eye on the Thal ghat along with Tringalwadi fort.

We moved toward it through thick woods. This bastion is on the west side of the fort. As we were approaching it, pouring started and continued for some time to make the way slightly slippery. But that did not offer much worries as we were comfortably atop. The highest part of this top is a small place with some sacred stones painted in orange. To the right, there is a huge ‘joti’ giving enough indication of a big house.

We proceeded toward the southern part and soon came across an unknown idol without any shelter. There is a small Shivpindi along with an equally tiny Nandi. Sulekh appreciated its beautiful ears. From here, a big water cistern can be located downwards to the south-west. These are two water tanks which are interconnected and the water seemed not enough potable.

We continued toward the south end. The view of the Kasara-Igatpuri railway track is fantastic from here. The railway enters the tunnel and there is a long ascending green spur of another railway track that was laid down in case of break-down (This valuable information was shared by Mangesh whose father is associated with the railways!).

We proceeded further toward east and found another bastion like structure. It’s mentioned in the gazetteer* that the whole fort was protected with a long, round stone-wall, the remains of which we were observing there. From here, the view of both the Igatpuri road (the Thal ghat!) and the Khodale phata gives ample proof of its importance as a watch-keeper in those days.

We walked further toward north and came across another beautiful stone arrangement, probably the remains of the same protecting wall. From here, the paagote shaped Tringalwadi fort renders a wonderful view to the north-east.

Balwantgad is too small to spend much time there. We finished our lunch and started descending from the north end. The spur led us to the same tar road from where it took hardly 15 minutes to reach Vihigaon.

Note:

(1) *Reference: http://www.maharashtra.gov.in/pdf/gazeetter_reprint/Thane-III/places_Balvantgad.html

(2) From Vihigaon, one may go to Devbandh (24 km), famous for its Ganesh temple or Tryambak (62 km)

(3) For snaps: http://sambhaji.multiply.com/photos/album/92/Hike_to_Balwantgad_13.07.2008

and

http://sulekhbaikar.multiply.com/photos/album/11/Balwantgad_near_Kasara#

Do enjoy!!!

Siddhagad (July 06, 2008)

Members: Sulekh Baikar and Sambhaji Chopdekar

1. The beginning from Uchale:

During Gorakhgad hike, one must have seen the massive Siddhagad on the way. We decided to visit this mighty fort on this Sunday. We reached Mhasa at 08.45 am via Murbad. As per the literature available, Narivali is the base village to this beautiful fort. But in one of the books* it’s mentioned that Uchale, the next village to Narivali on the Mhasa-Dehri road, would be an ideal halt to start this hike. We decided to do the same as some of the local people advised us not to proceed from Narivali since there are lots of routes that may confuse a naïve trekker while the route from Uchale is a straight forward one. And it proved the same as we lost the valuable time while returning to Narivali in the evening.

We alighted at Uchale at about 09.10 am. From here, the view of both Machchhindra and Gorakhgad is simply awesome. The area surrounded by Siddhagad, has now been declared as the Bheemashankar Sanctuary. A board depicting the same welcomes us there.

The ‘Rajmarg’ for the Siddhagadwadi from here is just amazing! Most of the times, we had to walk through the watery path due to overflow from the nearby streams. It was not raining but we couldn’t spot our destination i.e. Siddhagad due to thick fog.

Soon we came across a small, narrow river that might be flowing through the Gorakhgad valley. We found a suitable place there to have some breakfast. A villager joined us while we were discussing the next route as the clouds were not yet cleared from the Siddhagad machi. But this local confirmed that we were on the right track.

Actually the route is quite simple. One must eye for heading toward the ‘Siddha’ pinnacle (Siddhachi Lingi) as the first destination. After having breakfast, we resumed our journey and soon reached a hamlet called Shindewadi. As per the advice of a local boy, we kept on going straight and came across a river. This same river may be flooded when the rains may be in full swing. The Gorakhgad always accompanies us to the left. And we were so amused by the surrounding beauty that we were almost trying to capture each and every frame that we found beautiful. It might be one of the reasons for which we had to pay afterwards.

We crossed this not so flooded river easily and soon reached another hamlet called Siddhagadwadi at about 10.15 am. Now the way ahead was familiar to Sulekh who had done this hike seven years ago.

2. Motiram Bhaware’s jhaap:

There is a steep route from this small hamlet that goes through a thick jungle. There are too many tracks on the way that may confuse us. But it’s always advisable to go through the middle one which is the most prominent one and not to forget to keep the stream (remember the same earlier river!) to the left. The route was leading us to the base of the Siddha pinnacle keeping the Siddhagadmachi toward right.

It was almost 11.00 am when we came upon a small hut belonging to Mr. Motiram Bhaware. It’s the only shanty on this way; so reaching here, one must feel relieved to know that s/he is on the right track. From here, the Siddhagadmachi remains toward our right and the way, mostly known as the Narivali ghat further goes toward the Siddha pinnacle.

3. Narivali Ghat:

We continued our hike keeping an eye on the Siddha pinnacle, keeping the stream originating from this pinnacle as well as the beautiful Siddhagadmachi toward our right. After hiking for about 30 minutes, we reached a point where one has to cross this stream to the right (11.30 am). Again, the same thing happened. We couldn’t control ourselves from capturing the beauty of this full-fledged flowing stream in our cameras and spent some valuable 15 minutes at this junction. But I think, it was worth.

After having that fun, we crossed this stream and started climbing the ghat. Soon we came across another stream that jumps down the valley gracefully. From here, the mouse shaped Kakadmala pinnacle looks fabulous. There is a small rock-cut water tank near a chafa tree at this junction. The beautiful ghat then led us toward the Siddhagad machi keeping the Siddha pinnacle always in front. On the way, there is a beautiful stone arrangement.

At about 12.15 pm, we were welcomed by the equally beautiful gate. The route from Bheemashankar meets this junction. Before proceeding toward the entrance, we changed our track to visit the two stone structures lying near a small plateau which is facing the Siddha pinnacle. The Kakadmala pinnacle and the adjacent mighty hill (Damdamya Dongar) toward right present an excellent view from here. The Siddhagad machi and its massive citadel (balekilla) offer an equally fascinating view toward our left. One can easily locate the Naarmata temple surrounded by thick jungle from here.

4. Siddhagadmachi:

We returned from this heaven and entered the gate. The entrance is still in wonderful condition. It was almost 12.30 pm so we skipped the Naarmata temple and went ahead. After walking for about 15 minutes we reached the famous school (Just kidding! But it is a well-known place among trekkers as it’s an ideal place for the night-stay).

Just before this school, the route bifurcates toward left for the balekilla. The route to the top can be visualized from here-just look at the massif for a cave which is of Saatvahan era. Just above it, there is another rectangular-shaped excavation. The route is through a hidden col which is situated to the right of this Saatvahan cave. Here some small steps (paavtya) offer the much needed help.

5. Toward the balekilla:

We decided to have our lunch at top and marched toward the balekilla. The route is quite easy which passes by a big mango tree. We entered the jungle and started climbing toward the balekilla. The view of Siddhagadmachi and Gorakhgad after ascending some distance is simply breathtaking.

At about 13.35 pm, we reached the cave of Saatvahan era. There are two small water cisterns nearby to the right of this cave. We then traversed to the right and reached the hidden col. This is the first set of steps that are cleverly made. Hats off to the creator!

After ascending those, we came across another set of about 30-35 useful steps. One must be careful while ascending further as the valley offers a frightening look to the left. It was then a zigzag route that reminded me of my Salher hike. The steps are really helpful. The most dangerous spot is just before the rectangular excavation where the water flows down the steps continuously to make them slippery and there is a free fall behind. We must thank nature as it didn’t rain during our march.

6. The summit:

At about 14.40 pm, we reached the top and we were happy that we could make it at last after 5 hrs. Before having lunch, we decided to inspect the fort first. We were first welcomed by a well-carved Shivpindi and Nandi who have been here bearing the wrath of nature without having any shelter. One can locate the Jambhurde dam to the South-west. The view of Padargad from here to the South is just superb!

There are two big water cisterns to the left beside the shivpindi. When we started toward the eastern part, we found a complex of three more water cisterns ahead which are interconnected and the water seemed to be potable. We went further to find a beautiful green spur just similar to Vinchukata of Lohgad.

We came back and then proceeded toward the western part. There is a small gate which comprises of two small guard rooms (devdya) inside it. We entered it and moved toward the western end to find some remains of houses. There is one dilapidated structure at the end and the view of Gorakhgad from here is beyond explanation.

We returned back to the Shivpindi, had lunch and set out for the return journey at about 15.40 pm. Thus we spent full one hour atop. Descending was fun but at some point, frightening too, especially near the rectangular excavation. A rope is certainly advisable for this patch.

7. The climax:

We reached Siddhagadmachi at 17.00 pm. You know what, it was our first hike that was not yet over; otherwise we try to finish it by this time as it’s sometimes dangerous due to the diminishing light. However we were fortunate as the sunlight was quite in abundant and it took about half an hour to reach the stream where we had enjoyed in the morning. It was time to get refreshed so we spent another 15 minutes there to enjoy the waters. At about 17.50 pm we resumed and within 20 minutes we had been at the Bhaware’s hut (18.10 pm). Still Dilli was far ahead!

We set out for Narivali from here as the ST for Murbad does not go up to Uchale. We made it really fast keeping the Siddhagad machi toward left. But the route is not so simple. We were walking endlessly to find our dearest destination, Narivali. But it was not yet in our sight. No doubt, we were helped by the local people on this route. But still it was a long route than our expectations.

We crossed the river (the same!) and were on the most convincing bullock cart way. But it proved deceptive. The time was running out like the dried sand through the palms. At about 18.45 pm, we were literally running desperately to look for the Narivali village and we lost our way.

But soon, Sulekh identified a villager in the dimming light and called upon for the further way. Due to his great help, we reached a field where a farmer was just returning home after his work. He accompanied us up to Narivali and in the diminishing light, we reached there at about 19.20 pm, only to discover, the ST had left for Murbad.

It was our mistake that we could not make out it and decided not to repeat such mistake again in future. It was our fault as we unnecessarily spent time in the morning. Really it was a very frustrating situation as the private vehicles plying on this road had gone for taking rest. But there was a last hope, an ST for Murbad** at 20.30 pm and we desperately waited for it like a lover waits endlessly for his lady!

* Reference: A Marathi book entitled ‘Chala Trekkingla’, by Pandurang Patankar, Snehal Prakashan, Pune

**Note: The ST for Murbad does not go via Mhasa.